How to get started with meat rabbits: everything you need to know

When choosing a meat source for your homestead, rabbit is a great option. Not only are they small and easy to handle, the turnaround time for meat is quick. Most meat rabbits are ready to butcher between 10–16 weeks, depending on the breed. Rabbits are small-scale friendly—meaning you don’t need a ton of land to raise them. They are also very quiet! In my opinion, they are one of the most underrated homestead animals.

Above all livestock, rabbits have the best feed-to-meat efficiency. They convert feed to protein better than any other livestock. Common meat breeds are New Zealand, Californian, Standard Rex, Silver Fox, Champagne d’Argent, etc. I have personally raised Silver Fox, New Zealand, and Rex. Rex are by far my favorite, but you have to choose the breed that fits best for you and your family.

Rabbits have multiple uses: meat for food, bones for bone broth, pelts that can be tanned for blankets, etc., and their poop is one of the best fertilizers! Every part of the animal can be used. They are also one of the easier homestead animals to process.

A doe on average has 6–8 kits per litter. A single doe can produce 100–150 lbs of meat per year! Add in multiple does and you have steady meat production. I prefer to grow my kits out for 12–16 weeks, depending on the breed. Rex grow a bit slower than other commercial meat breeds, so I tend to process them around 16 weeks.

There are three different options for housing rabbits: cages, hutches, or colony style. Cages are exactly as they sound. Rabbits are housed in a wire-bottom cage. I know what you’re thinking—rabbits shouldn’t be in cages? But wire-bottom flooring is actually best for rabbits’ feet! The correct gauge wire is crucial though. Fourteen-gauge wire should always be used for the bottom, and sixteen-gauge wire can be used for the sides and top. The goal is to ensure your rabbits do not get sore hocks. For most meat breeds, 24”x24” is the minimum standard cage size, although I prefer bigger. A doe with kits should have a larger cage, such as a 30”x36”. Housing rabbits in hutches is slightly different. Some hutches do have wire-bottom flooring, but many also have wooden flooring. Hutches can be a slightly more cost-effective option, especially if you are building them yourself. We used spare lumber to build our hutches. Lastly is colony style. Most folks use an old shed or barn, and all the rabbits live together, bucks and does alike. There are downsides to this: higher risk of coccidia (from being on the ground) and uncontrolled breeding. Twenty to thirty square feet should be allotted per rabbit in a colony-style setting. There are some pros to colony style, but it’s not for me. We do a combination of hutches and cages. I prefer cages; it keeps the rabbits’ feet clean and I have to worry about sore hocks less.

If you’re planning on getting into meat rabbits, I would suggest getting a trio of rabbits. By that I mean two does and one buck. The buck should be unrelated to the does. This will get you set up for your meat production. One buck can cover multiple does easily. If you aren’t planning to show and only want meat, crossbreeding is always an option. Hybrid vigor comes into play with crossbreeding. The crossbred kits tend to grow quicker than the parents and tend to be hardier. A crossbred rabbit may yield a higher meat-to-feed ratio. Common crosses are New Zealand x Californian and New Zealand x Rex. I once crossed a New Zealand with a Silver Fox. The litter was the fastest growing that I’ve yet to produce.

When choosing a trio of rabbits, always look for a reliable breeder who culls for certain traits such as split penis, pinched hips, malocclusion, poor growth rate, and bad mothering. In order to get your meat production off the ground, you need quality animals. Temperament should be a factor too—and an aggressive rabbit will pass that behavior down to its offspring.

A doe is ready to breed between 6 and 8 months of age, depending on breed. It’s always best to give rabbits plenty of time to mature before breeding. I like to wait until my bucks are 6 months old before breeding as well. When breeding, always take your doe to the buck’s cage, not the other way around. Does can be very territorial. If the doe is receptive, her vulva will be a dark pink/purple in color. When placed in with the buck she will “lift” her bottom up for the buck to breed her. The buck will “fall off”when the deed is completed. I always aim for at least 2–3 “fall offs.” If a doe is not receptive, she will tuck her tail and will not lift. She may also run from the buck and grunt.

A rabbit’s gestation is 31 days. Two days prior to kindling, a doe should be given a nest box. You can purchase these at Rural King or Tractor Supply. This is where the doe will kindle and house her kits. You do NOT want kits born on the wire. I provide lots of shavings and hay for the doe inside her nest box. A doe should build her nest and prepare it for her kits. Some does will pull fur two days prior, some minutes before they kindle. It simply depends on the doe. The doe pulls fur to keep her kits warm and safe. Pulling fur does not hurt the doe; her fur naturally loosens for this process. When the doe kindles, it shouldn’t take more than thirty minutes. Kindling generally happens quickly, and it’s rare to catch them doing it. Does prefer privacy during birth, so I usually leave them alone on their due date until they’ve had their kits.

If a doe is a bad mom (has kits on the wire, eats her babies, doesn’t care for them, etc.), she gets three strikes and she’s a cull. It’s normal for rabbits to be a bit quirky during pregnancy, so I give the does a pass for that, but aggression is not tolerated otherwise. I have a doe that grunts loudly when bred to let me know my presence isn’t welcome, but once she kindles she is back to her sweet self. Mamas should be free-fed while raising kits. A handful of black oil sunflower seeds can be given to aid lactation.

Weaning is usually done between 6–10 weeks of age. I like to wean between 6–8 weeks. It’s best to pull babies slowly so that mama doesn’t get mastitis. Pull the largest kits first and then the smallest later. Kits should be successfully eating pellets and hay on their own prior to weaning. Avoid greens when they are little; this can cause upset stomach.

Weaned kits should be free-fed (fed as much as they want) pellets and hay. The goal is to get your kits to grow as quickly as possible. Genetics are also a factor. Faster-growing parents will yield faster-growing kits. New Zealand and Californian are two fast-growing breeds.

I personally breed pedigreed Rex. After having multiple breeds, I fell in love with the Rex. They have wonderful personalities, and their fur is luxurious. I breed and cull per the standard of perfection. Breeding per the standard of perfection also ensures better meat production. The better-typed rabbit, the more meat. Rex do grow slightly slower than other commercial meat breeds, but they have lots of benefits. Their pelts are perfect to tan.

Dispatch is one of the parts of raising rabbits that homesteaders dread the most. Rabbits are cute and fluffy after all, right? I have to get in the mindset that this is their purpose. They’ve had a good life. I always ensure all my rabbits, even the culls, are treated with respect and care. Cervical dislocation, in my opinion, is the best way to dispatch a rabbit. We use the “hopper popper.” It’s quick and effective. Other methods of cervical dislocation are the chain method and broomstick method. Teal Stone Homestead on YouTube has some excellent videos on how to properly dispatch a rabbit.

Coccidia can wreak havoc on your herd if not properly avoided. Using cages or keeping your animals above the ground helps a lot. I give a dose of Corid every three months to my entire herd to help prevent coccidia. It’s been a great way to effectively keep it away. Corid can be given through their water.

If using cages, proper equipment is important. Rabbit pans are an excellent tool to collect rabbit poop and pee (especially if you want it for the garden!). Resting mats are also important for rabbits who are in a cage setting. Taylor Farms (she can be found on Facebook and TikTok) has excellent supplies for all your rabbit needs! She also builds custom cages if you are in the Alabama area. If you are wanting to get into Rex rabbits, her Facebook page has excellent information.

Rabbits can be very beneficial for any homestead. They are fairly cheap to get started and can produce high-quality meat.

Teal Stone Homestead Processing video: https://youtu.be/hpSwY-ScmyE?si=nVs5fd7buQiXELfH

Taylor Farms:

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